Understanding Ethnic Skin
Aside from pigment, ethnic and caucasian skin differs in skin thickness, barrier function, melanogenesis, and inflammatory response.
For instance, ethnic skin types tend to have more skin layers and larger oil glands causing more congestion and acne, but less aging effects compared to caucasian skin.
So with all this in mind, here are some of my best tips to treat acne in multicultural skin safely!
When treating acne in people of color, it is always best to start slow and work up to more advanced treatments. Main concerns are typically with acne and oily skin due to larger sebaceous glands.
They also have issues with hyperpigmentation and scarring because of their increased melanocyte activity and thicker skin.
So the goal is to limit the amount of inflammation, trauma, and downtime for your client to help them achieve healthy and more even-toned skin. Opt for more hydrating facials or a gentle enzyme for first-time ethnic clients. Diamond Glow is my go-to service - then I will gradually add on mild chemicals and then hit with a powerful one like the perfect dermal peel.
Tyrosinase inhibitors are going to be crucial when treating acne in multicultural clients. By using, you reduce the risk of PIH caused by trauma from acne lesions. It also helps to prep darker skin types by keeping their skin barrier healthy and protected.
Tyrosinase is an enzyme in our melanocytes that helps to produce melanin within the cell. Therefore, inhibiting this activity will help to reduce hyperpigmentation.
Popular tyrosinase inhibitors are: Arbutin, Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), Licorice Root, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Azelaic Acid, Kojic Acid, and Retinol.² Hydroquinone is also a well-known tyrosinase inhibitor but must be used safely and properly since it can cause bleaching.
It is always important to express how beneficial homecare and treatment prep is to the patient, explain to your clients that our melanocytes are working on a daily basis!
So in order to avoid any inflammatory/pigmentation issues, they must be using their products consistently.
(This also means we call at least once a month to make sure they are being consistent)
The same applies to acne – it is a disorder of the pores where we constantly shed dead skin cells, and unfortunately, it does not have a cure.
Daily exfoliation, tyrosinase inhibitors, and antibacterial products are important for addressing acne in darker skin types.
I suggest products with benzoyl peroxide, glycolic, lactic, salicylic, or mandelic acid.
Prevention and preparation for your dark skin types are of utmost priority. You want to make sure that your ethnic clients are on a professional homecare regimen for at least 4 weeks so that their skin is ready for advanced treatments.
Also, express to them the importance of sunscreen!
Protecting those melanocytes from UV radiation will help from inflammation and skin damage.
Treating multicultural skin can be a challenge, but hopefully, with these tips, you will have more confidence to address your client’s concerns in the treatment room.
