NAD+ in Topical Skincare: Efficacy, Mechanisms, and Evidence

NAD+ (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide) is a vital coenzyme involved in cellular energy production, DNA repair, and mitochondrial function. Its levels decline with age, contributing to skin aging.

The hypothesis is that topical NAD+ could replenish these levels, offering anti-aging benefits. However, there are challenges and penetration issues: NAD+ is a large, polar molecule, making it difficult to penetrate the skin’s stratum corneum. It also degrades quickly when exposed to light, heat, or pH changes, reducing its efficacy in formulations.

This is why mi.Glō MD uses NAD+ Precursors like nicotinamide (vitamin B3), nicotinamide riboside (NR), or nicotinamide mononucleotide (NMN). These smaller, stable molecules penetrate better and convert to NAD+ intracellularly.

We also love how NAD+ fuels ATP production, enhancing skin cell metabolism and activates sirtuins (SIRT1-7), proteins that promote DNA repair, reduce oxidative stress, and delay cellular senescence. NAD + also Increases ceramide synthesis, improving hydration and protection as well as modulates cytokines and inhibits UV-induced damage.

Clinical Evidence: - Nicotinamide (Vitamin B3): - Proven to improve skin elasticity, reduce hyperpigmentation, and diminish redness (e.g., rosacea). - Study: A 2005 Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology trial showed 5% nicotinamide reduced fine lines and hyperpigmentation after 12 weeks. - NMN and NR: - Limited but promising studies.

A 2021 International Journal of Molecular Sciences review highlighted NMN’s role in enhancing skin hydration and elasticity in mice. Human trials are ongoing.

As far as direct NAD+ topicals go there is parse evidence. Most research focuses on oral or injectable NAD+.

Brands often market NAD+ precursors (not pure NAD+) with claims like “cellular rejuvenation” and “age reversal.” - For Example: Some serums combine NMN with antioxidants (e.g., resveratrol) to synergize sirtuin activation.

Unfortunately at this time there are few studies that validate topical NAD+ itself. Most benefits are extrapolated from precursor research.

Formulation Hurdles: Encapsulation or lipid-based delivery systems may improve stability but are not universally adopted.

Regulatory Status: NAD+ precursors are generally recognized as safe (GRAS), but specific efficacy claims require FDA approval.

Let me compare to proven ingredients for you:

Retinoids: Gold standard for collagen stimulation; NAD+ precursors lack comparable long-term data.

Vitamin C: Offers antioxidant benefits and collagen synthesis; NAD+ may complement but not replace it.

My clients that have tried products with NAD+, what I’ve seen on social media and anecdotal reports suggest improved radiance and texture, but placebo effects or concurrent ingredients (e.g., hyaluronic acid) may contribute.

For now my conclusion: While NAD+ precursors (nicotinamide, NMN) in skincare show promise for enhancing hydration, barrier function, and reducing signs of aging, direct topical NAD+ remains unproven due to bioavailability and stability challenges. Current evidence supports precursors over pure NAD+ in formulations.

I recommend opting for products with nicotinamide (5% concentration) or NMN paired with delivery enhancers (e.g., liposomes). Look for peer-reviewed studies backing specific formulations.

For now, NAD+ boosters are best viewed as adjuncts to proven actives like retinoids and antioxidants.

“NAD+ skincare” is rooted in compelling science, but its efficacy hinges on precursor use and advanced delivery systems. More human clinical trials are needed to validate claims.